Welcome to this week’s free tutorial: How to make a wrap asymmetric jacket dress as requested by Betty Beam.
Thank you ma’am for making a request through our platform. I am truly sorry that it is coming a day later than intended. I have so much…I mean so much on my plate at the moment. I literally couldn’t believe it skipped my mind.
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Now to today’s tutorial. Please note that this tutorial is for Intermediates and experts
Now before we go straight into the tutorial, I’ll like us to analyse it first.
What can you make out from the outfit?
To me, this outfit does not consist of a gown and jacket. As a matter of fact, to me, it is a whole outfit with a wrap effect in front. Also, it will take a very sturdy fabric like organza, velvet or even scuba to create an outfit with such a standing effect.
Don’t have any of that? Then maybe a very hard interfacing can also be used to pull it off
So with that out of the way, here is how to cut out such an outfit.
- Basic Gown Block: As earlier mentioned in HOW TO MAKE A SCUBA DRESS, this is a combination of a basic bodice block and a basic skirt block.
Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
Don’t know how to make a straight skirt block? Please click here
2. Pattern papers
3. Body statistics: The body measurement required in this tutorial are:
- Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape loosely around your bust and measure. Using me as an example, my bust circumference is 38 inches
- Under Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape loosely under your bust and measure.
- Duplicate the gown block: We will begin by duplicating the gown block to 2 front pieces and one back piece. The first duplicate will be labelled Wrap front piece 1. The second duplicate will be labelled Wrap front piece 2. The back pieces should be duplicated without the zip allowances.
2. Adjusting the original gown block: So our original gown block will form the pattern for our inner garment. From the cover photo, we can see the dress is a tube dress. Therefore to achieve this, kindly follow the steps below:
Step 1: Measure 1.5 inch from the bust level at the front.
Step 2: Measure 1/8 of bust measurement from the folded area at both the front and back pieces and mark
Step 3: At the under-bust level at the bust area, insert a breast-cut.
To learn how to insert breast cut using the shoulder princess seam, please click here.
When done, your front piece and back pieces will look like this
Step 4: Then at the upper bust level, slash through the front and back pieces
When done, your gown pattern will look like this
3. Adjusting the wrap pieces. Okay now that we have succeeded in adjusting our inner piece, we will proceed to adjust the wrap pieces.
Slash through the two front pieces like this:
When done, your wrap front pieces will look like these
4. Drafting the collar: To draft the collar, measure around the neckline of all the inner gown pieces
Then draft only a collar leaf, the circumference of which should be the total length of the necklines.
To learn more how to draft a collar leaf, please visit here.
5. Drafting the sleeves: See how to draft a sleeve here. To learn how to sew the various types of sleeves- Blouse sleeve, Shirt sleeve, Peplum sleeve, Cap sleeve, Tulip sleeve, Raglan sleeve, bell sleeve and so on, please click here.
When done drafting your sleeve, it will look like this
And you are done.
By the way, you will notice that the wraps and collar of our outfit in question are in three layers.
So triplicate each piece with about 1 inch difference is length and breadth
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