Hi Sew lover

How are you doing? How’s the fashion business going for you? Okay, so as per one of the Sew community member’s request, we are going to looking at how to make this lovely dress. Please do note that this tutorial is for intermediate sewists.

 

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Now to today’s tutorial

Requirement

1.Straight gown pattern or Bodice/Long pencil skirt pattern: You will need an existing straight gown pattern made from your body measurement or that of a client’s or a bodice and long skirt pattern of the same measurements.

Don’t know how draft a Straight gown pattern? Please click here

Don’t know how to draft a Basic bodice block or a skirt block, please click here

2. Pattern papers

3. Body statistics: The body measurements you will need include:

  • Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape loosely around your bust or that of your clients and measure the circumference. Using me as an example, my bust measurement is 38inches.
  • Shoulder to Elbow Length: Place your measuring tape at the base of your shoulder or that of a client’s and measure the distance between your shoulder and “above your elbow”
  • Elbow to Wrist length: Place your measuring tape “above your elbow) and measure the distance between your elbow and your wrist.
  • Elbow cuff: This is the circumference of your elbow. Place your measuring tape loosely around your “above elbow”

4. Pencil/Pen/Marker/Eraser

5. Ruler/Measuring tape

Procedures

  1. Inserting darts: To add shape to our existing straight gown pattern or basic bodice block and long skirt pattern, we will need to insert darts. This could be regular darts or princess seam/dart(learn more about princess seam darts here).

To insert darts to both the bodice and skirt part of your straight gown pattern, please follow the steps below:

Step 1: Mark out all levels of your body or client’s body. This could be:

  • Bust level: Which could be 1.5-2 inches below your armhole
  • Waist level: This could be 7-8 inches below your bust level
  • Hip level: This could be 8-10 inches below your waist level
  • Kneel level: This could be 17-19 inches below your waist level.

Step 2: At the bust level and waist level, measure 1/8 of your bust measurement or that of a client’s and mark.

Using me as an example, 1/8 x 38 inches = 4.75inches

Step 3: Make a bodice and skirt dart from the new points on both the bodice and skirt part respectively.

See how to insert darts here.

Step 4: Snip the zip allowance of your straight skirt pattern at the knee level. This is where your slit will begin.

2. Adjusting the bodice: From our cover photo, you will notice that the neckline of our bodice is “High-neck/jewel-neckline” with a halter neck at left side.

So to adjust this, kindly follow the steps below:

Step 1: Fold your pattern paper into equal halves and place your bodice block on it. Trace all sides of both the front and and back pieces besides the neckline.

Step 2: At the neckline, measure 2.5″ from the base and mark.

Then readjust the neckline as shown below.

Step 3: Clean off the old neckline and your new neckline for your front piece will look like this:

When you unfold your new basic blouse block, it will look like this

Step 4: Measure 2 inches from the base of your left neckline at both the front and back pieces as shown and mark.

Step 5: Make a curve at the neckline and a straight line towards the armhole as shown.

Step 6: Slash off what you have traced and your new front and back pieces will look like these:

3. Preparing the sleeves: So from our cover-photo, we can see that there are set-in sleeves for the arm and then Pepla for the fore-arms. Therefore draft out 2 of Set-in sleeve

See how to draft a set-in sleeve here.

The length of your sleeve should be your “Shoulder to Elbow” measurement (See Requirement) 👆)

4. Making the “Cold Shoulder”: Also from our cover-photo, we can see that one side of bodice, is ‘cold-shoulder’. Therefore to make a cold shoulder, please follow the steps below:

Step 1: Measure the distance between bottom of your bodice armscye and the middle of the armscye. Do this for both the front and back pieces of the bodice.

Let’s assume the distance is 10 inches.

Step 2: Measure the 10 inches, also from the bottom of the armscye of one of your sleeves and mark.

Step 3: Open up your sleeves and slash off the top of it as shown

When done, your new sleeve pattern will look like this

5. Making the Peplum sleeves: From our cover photo, we can see that the outfit has 2 sets of three peplum sleeves that begin from the elbow and extend to the wrist. This means we have to make 2 set of peplum sleeves which comprises of three layers.

  • Third layer peplum length = Elbow to wrist length(See Requirement)
  • Second layer peplum length= EWL – 3 inches
  • First layer peplum length = (Second layer peplum length)-3 inches.

However, each layer must have a base measurement of your ‘Elbow cuff (See requirement)

When done, your peplum layers(on top each other) will look like this

To learn more on how to draft a peplum, please click here.

And that is it- How to cut a cold shoulder gown with triple peplum sleeve

SUMMARY

BODICE AND LONG PENCIL SKIRT

SLEEVES

To learn how to sew outfits like this, please join TheQEffectz Intermediate/Advanced Class this March. Registrations begin February 28th, 2018.

Prospective and Returning Students are advised to click here to learn more.

For more information, about TheQEffectz E-training program, please Contact us or chat live with one of our customer representatives at the bottom of our site page.

So till next time for more juicy updates, kisses!

“The midwives answered Pharaoh, “Hebrew women are not like Egyptian women; they are vigorous and give birth before the midwives arrive.”- Exodus 1:19


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