Hi sew lover
Welcome to today’s tutorial and we are going to be looking briefly at a sew project I’ll be treating in TheQEffectz Advanced Class this session- How to make a Blazer jacket and Suits.
I’ll be dropping the pattern-drafting of how to make a blazer jacket tutorial here. To learn how to sew any of jackets and more, then register in advance for our 2019 E-training program. Click here to register now.
So in today’s tutorial, I’ll be showing you how to draft both the peak-pointed lapel type of blazer jacket and also the shawl collar( aka tuxedo lapel)(see variant of this tutorial here). We are also going to include the shoulder princess seam dart(to learn more about all the various princess seam darts and how to use them to make breast padded outfits, please click here)
Please note that this tutorial is for Intermediates
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What is a Peak-Pointed Lapel Jacket.
This is literally any jacket where the lapel and collar intersect or meet. This effect is created mostly when the collar is joined to the lapel while sewing. So I may not be able to elaborate on this during this tutorial. So to see how to carefully join the lapel and collar together to create a Peak-pointed effect, then register for our Online Classes today or download the tutorial from our Online stores here.
What is a Shawl collar blazer jacket?
Just like the name suggests, it is a blazer jacket with a shawl collar. Read more about shawl collar jackets here.
1..Basic Bodice Block: As earlier mentioned in so many sewing projects and tutorials we’ve treated(see them here), a basic bodice block is one of the foundations of garment construction. You can literally adjust it to anything you want. It is that great once you know how to draft one.
Don’t know how to make a basic bodice block? Please click here
2. Pattern papers
3. Body statistics: The body measurement required in this tutorial are:
- Bust circumference: Place your measuring tape loosely around your bust and measure. Using me as an example, my bust circumference is 38 inches
- Jacket length: Place your measuring tape at the root of your shoulders and measure how long you want your jacket to be. For the sake of this tutorial, the jacket length will be 24 inches.
- Waist to abdomen: This is the distance between your waist and lower abdomen. Place your measuring tape at the waist level and measure the distance between your waist and abdomen. For the sake of this tutorial, the distance is 5 inches.
So the entire procedure of making a blazer jacket will be adjusting our basic bodice block to a blazer jacket and since we have two types of jacket to create, we will begin with the peak-pointed lapel and then move to the next.
Peak-pointed Lapel Blazer jacket
Before we dive right into adjusting our bodice, it is important to note the following dimensions used to draft our basic bodice.
- Front neckline: 3 inches wide x 2.5 inches long
- Back neckline:3 inches wide x 1.5 long
- Bust level: (1/4 x bust measurement)+ 1.5 inches seam allowance
(1/4 x 38 inches) + 1.5 inches = 9.5 inches + 1.5 inches = 11 inches
- Waist level: (1/4 x waist measurement)+ 1 inch for dart + 1.5 inches seam allowance
(1/4 x 34 inches)+ 1+ 1.5= 8.5 + 1+ 1.5 =11 inches.
So with all that out of the way, let’s begin
Step 1: From the shoulder of your basic block, Measure the jacket length and mark(See requirement)
Extend the line to create a horizontal line AB
Step 2: Measure 1.5 inches from line AB and mark.
Extend the line to create a horizontal line CD
Step 3:Then draw the vertical lines of the sides of the blocks to meet line CD
Step 4: At the hip line(line AB) Measure 1/4 of your hip measurement from the Centre front of both the front and back pieces and mark
Using me as a client, my hip measurement is 44 inches.
1/4 x 44 inches = 11 inches
Step 5: Draw a line from the waistline to meet these points at the hipline
Step 6: From the hip line, draw a curve to meet the hemline
Step 7: Highlight the bust level and the waist level
Since the jacket we are going to make will have a shoulder princess seam, we will proceed to measure 2 inches from the neckline at the both the front and back pieces
Step 8: At the front piece, measure 1 inch from the bust level and mark.
Step 9: Measure 1/8 of your bust measurement and mark.
Using me as a client, my bust measurement is 38 inches
1/8 x 38 inches = 4.75 inches
Step 10: Measure your waist to abdomen(see requirements) and mark.
Step 11: Then draw a concave line to join the various points you made as shown below.
Step 12: Mark an inch from the Center-front and mark
This will serve as your placket for your jacket
Step 13: Measure 2.5 inches from the placket line and mark
Step 14: Then draw a curve to from the new point to meet anywhere on bodice.
If you want your lapel to stop at the bustlevel, then draw your curve towards the bust level
If you want your lapel to stop at the waist level, then draw your curve towards the waist level
Step 15: Then at the bottom of the front piece, draw a curve to join point B to D
Step 16: At the step, we’ll readjust the centre back at the waist level
So measure 0.5 inch and mark. Then reshape the centre back line as shown
Step 17: As we have often said here on TheQEffectz, whenever you make a slash on your pattern, always add back what you have slashed, otherwise, when you cut your pattern out on your fabric, and join them together without accommodating for the slash or stitch allowances, your garment will become too small
Thus, add back the inches you intend to slash due to our princess seam at both the front and back pieces.
When done, your jacket front piece will look like this
While the back piece, will look like this
When you slash through the front and back pieces, they will look like these
Step 18: You can choose to include a welt pocket one or both sides of the front piece
Step 19: Make a collar. See here to learn how to draft a collar
Step 20 :Make the sleeves pattern. See here to learn how to make the various types of sleeves and even how to cut the perfect armhhole.
Step 21: Make over-pieces for your jacket. This usually consist of facing and lining. While the mid front pieces and neckline of your back pieces will consist of your fabric, the others can be cut out from lining
Here is what I mean
Place your pattern( front, back and collar pieces) on your fabric and cut. When done, they will look like these
Then the over-pieces will look like these
Shawl collar Jacket
With our peak lapel jacket complete, we can go even further to adjust for a shawl-collar and the steps are pretty easy
Step 1: We will begin drawing a line from the neckline to meet the waistline
Then we will clean off the old lapel
Step 2: Measure 3.5 inches from the base of the neckline and mark
As already mentioned in the introductory part of this tutorial, the neckline for our back piece is 3 inches. Add half an inch for stitch allowance and the total will be 3.5 inches
Step 3: Then measure 3 -10 inches, depending on how wide you want your shawl collar to be, at a 90 degree angle.
Step 4: Then draw a concave from the new point to the waistline
And you are done.
See more about Shawl-collar jackets here
A peek into the sewing tutorial using the patterns above
To download the full sewing tutorial, click here
And that concludes our tutorial today. I hope it was very easy to understand. If you have any questions, please feel free to ask. Leave your questions on the comment box below. And don’t forget that you can always place a request for any tutorial you wish to see here. If it is a topic we have treated before, you will be redirected to where you can find the tutorial but if it has not been treated before, we’ll treat it as soon as we can.
Don’t want to wait? then join TheQEffectz Sew community. Membership is N100 per annum. See here to learn more
So till next time for more free tutorials, kisses!
“Listen, my dear brothers and sisters: Has not God chosen those who are poor in the eyes of the world to be rich in faith and to inherit the kingdom he promised those who love him? But you have dishonored the poor. Is it not the rich who are exploiting you? Are they not the ones who are dragging you into court? Are they not the ones who are blaspheming the noble name of him to whom you belong?
If you really keep the royal law found in Scripture, “Love your neighbor as yourself,”[a] you are doing right. But if you show favoritism, you sin and are convicted by the law as lawbreakers.”- James 2: 5-8
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