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HOW TO MAKE A PADDED BLOUSE(USING ALREADY-MADE BREAST PADS)

Hi sewlover
Do you know you can attach an already-made breast cups to your bodice, blouse or tops? Unlike previous tutorials: HOW TO MAKE A PADDED NET-PLEATED BLOUSE PATTERN, HOW TO MAKE A PADDED NET-PEPLUM BLOUSE PATTERN and even HOW TO MAKE A LACE EMBROIDERED BLOUSE(WITH A SIDE PEPLUM) where breast pads are cut, this entails using an already-existing breast cups which are sold in most fabric or sewing accessory shop.

COMING SOON.

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What is a Padded Blouse?

A padded blouse as the name suggests, is a blouse aided with breast pads/cups at the bust region. This type of blouse is preferably worn by women who wish to avoid the use of bras or bust attachments. This type of blouse is commonly used by Nigerians and Indians alike. As Indian designs, they are commonly known as Sarees while as Nigerian designs, they are simply known as padded blouses.

So on this tutorial, I’m going to be showing you via pictures and demonstrations how to make one. This tutorial is both beginner and intermediate friendly.


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Requirements


1. Already made blouse: This will serve as a pattern for cutting out your blouse.
2. Fabric of choice: You will need 2 yards of fabric depending on your blouse width. The fabric of choice used in this tutorial is what is popularly known as chiffon and it currently cost N500, i.e $1.11 per yard. However, you can use any fabric of your choice.
3. Lining fabric(if necessary): if your fabric of choice is transparent, then you will need a lining fabric or more fabric of your choice to serve as lining. There you will need 1 yard of lining fabric. The lining fabric used in this tutorial is what is popularly known as “Aba” lining in Nigeria, and it currently costs N140, i.e 30 cent per yard.
4. Breast cups: Already-made breast cups are usually sold in fabric shop in various sizes. The cups thus used in this tutorial are size 32-34” and they cost about N500, i.e $1.11
5. Elastic band: The elastic band used are 1” wide x (¼ of body width) long.
6. Scissors
7. Matching thread.
8. Office pins
9. Pressing iron
10. Sewing machine
11. Electricity

Procedure

1. Cutting out the Blouse pattern: (See here to download E-pattern for female blouse). Unlike previous tutorials, where the back piece is made wider than the front piece to accommodate for zip allowances (zipper). I wanted this blouse to be without zipper. Hence, to achieve this, the blouse would have to be wider. Because I am also using a non-stretch fabric (chiffon), it is thus necessary to make the blouse wider.

So to cut the front and back pieces, fold your fabric into equal halves, and place your already-made blouse (unfolded) on it. Like this:


Then trace 2 inches away from the sides on your fabric, and 0.5 inches on all other sides; as shown in the photo below.


When done, cut through your traces, and you will have two pieces representing the front and back piece. Reshape the neckline of any one of them to any neckline of your choice. In this tutorial, I wanted the neckline of my front piece to be V-shaped.

2. Cutting the lining fabric (if necessary): Place your front and back pieces on your lining fabric. Trace all sides of each piece. When done, your lining fabrics for both front and back pieces will look like this.


3. Cutting the padded pieces: To attach the breast pads to your blouse, you will need to cut out another front and back pieces which will be 3/4 long.
So to do this, simply place the front piece of your blouse on your fabric of choice and trace out the sides, stopping at your waist/body region.

Remove your front piece and then cut through your trace. Repeat the same for your back piece and both the front and back pieces for your breast pads will look like these:

4. Attaching the lining fabrics to the front and back pieces of blouse: This section will be divided into attaching the lining fabric to (a) front piece and (b) back piece
(a) Front piece: Place your lining fabric on your sewing table and then your front piece on it, right side down and wrong side up. Stitch around the neckline.


Then snip.
Then match the seam towards the lining fabric
See more on how to match a seam, here

When done, your front piece will look like this:


(b) Back piece: Repeat the process for front piece.

5. Inserting darts (optional): You can choose to insert darts on your blouse or not. However, because I wanted my blouse to be super wide and free enough to pass through my body without a zipper, I chose to insert breast darts to the front piece instead.
Read more about Breast darts here
See also how to insert breast darts, here
When done, my front piece with breast darts, looked like this

6. Joining the front and back piece of your blouse: To join the front and back pieces together, place your back piece right down and your front piece, right side up, on it and stitch both the shoulders and the sides together.
See more on how to join the front and back pieces, here

When done my blouse now joined together looked like this


Take to pressing iron and press iron the edges.

7. Making the breast cups: This section will be divided into (a) Attaching the breast pads to the front piece (b) Joining the front and back pieces of the pad pieces. (c) Attaching elastic
(a) Attaching the breast pads to the 3/4 front piece: With our blouse done and out of the way, next step is to attach the breast pads to the 3/4 front piece already cut- out (See step 3 above).
To do this, place your breast pads face down on your front piece beginning at the upper bust level and stopping at the ‘under bust level (see photo below).

To know the distance between your bust level and your under-bust level, place a measuring tape at your tip of your bust and measure to the base of your bust.

Then place your measuring tape as separator between the two.
Then pin down the cups to your fabric.


Take to sewing machine and stitch around each cups.



When done your breast cups now attached to front piece will look like this:

At the wrong side of the front piece, cut out the fabric in the cup, like this:


When done, your breast pads on the front piece(wrong side up) will look like this:

(b) Join the front and back pieces of the pad pieces: Place the back piece wrong side down and right side up on your sewing table, and then place your front piece on it, wrong side up and right side down on the back piece.


Stitch the shoulders and the sides together.


(c) Attaching elastic band: Next, place your elastic band round your waist/body and cut.

Stitch the ends together and place it beneath your pad piece like this:


Then stitch the top end of it around your pad piece.
 When done your pad piece will look like this:


8. Joining the blouse and the pad piece together: Place your blouse right side up and wear your pad piece wrong side up around it, making sure the front neckline, shoulder and armhole corresponds with that of the blouse and vice versa for the back.

Stitch around the neckline and snip.


Then match the seam of the neckline to the pad piece.
When done, your blouse now attached to your pad piece will look like this:

9. Folding the armhole and bottom of the blouse: To fold the armhole and bottom of your blouse, use an overlock machine/serger machine to stitch around the armhole/bottom once and stitch or fold your armhole and bottom twice and stitch.

See how to fold armhole and bottom of blouse, here
Take to pressing table and press iron.
And you are done.

So tada! How to make a padded blouse(Using already made breast pads).




I hope the tutorial was well explanatory. Please don't forget to leave your questions on our comment box. 

See other related tutorial: 


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So till next time on another tutorial, kisses! 
And Happy Sewing!

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